Can you ever have too many chicken recipes? This one’s rich and delicious. It’s a simplified version of a standard North African dish, that can be found in David Scott’s Traditional Arab Cookery, a book so much used in our kitchen that our copy’s yellowed by turmeric. If you have a whole chicken and can make a stock from the carcass, it will be all the nicer. Rice or couscous (except for the gluten-intolerant) will go perfectly – for recipes, see Olive Oil, Garlic & Parsley.
- 100 g almonds (shelled)
- 1 chicken (approx 1.5 kg), jointed, or 4 joints, leg or breast
- salt and freshly ground pepper
- 2–4 cloves of garlic
- 2 tbsp parsley
- 100 ml olive oil
- 1 tsp turmeric
- 275 ml chicken stock (for a homemade one, see a recipe in Olive Oil, Garlic & Parsley) or water
Blanch and peel the almonds by dropping them into boiling water for a couple of minutes and removing the skins, which come off satisfyingly easily.
Skin the chicken pieces as far as possible and season generously with salt and pepper.
Crush the garlic and chop the parsley finely.
Let the garlic take colour in about three-quarters of the olive oil, heated in a thick-bottomed frying or sauté pan (with a lid). Stir in the turmeric before adding the chicken pieces and browning these all over.
Meanwhile, bring the stock, or an equivalent amount of water, to the boil and pour over the chicken to cover. Stir in the chopped parsley, seal with a lid, and simmer for about 1 h, turning the chicken over 2–3 times, and adding more stock or water if necessary.
Towards the end of the cooking time, fry the almonds in the last quarter of the oil, drain on kitchen paper, and scatter over the chicken just before serving.
The quality of chicken can vary so much, from the delicious and succulent to the bland and dry, and the much-loved traditional roast can so easily fall into the latter category for want of a flavoursome chicken.
The beauty of this Kubab Chicken dish is that it can salvage even an inferior chicken – thanks to a potent spice mix and the use of the pot-roasting method, it will be neither bland nor dry. Elizabeth David actually used this spice mix for fish as well as chicken, and the exotic aromas of the spices complement the subtle flavours of each in different ways.
I like to serve this as an alternative to the ubiquitous Sunday roast (which my family has gradually phased out of its culinary routine), as it’s a dish that carries sufficient gravitas to warrant inclusion on a serious Sunday menu.
The recipe is simple and quick to make, but the chicken does require marinating, so make sure you allow time for this – the temptation is always to cut corners here, but it’s not worth it!
- 2 tsp coriander seeds
- 2.5 cm piece of ginger
- 6 cardamom pods
- 12 black peppercorns
- 1/4 – 1/2 tsp salt
- 4 cloves
- vegetable ghee or olive oil
- a roasting chicken, weighing 1 – 1.4 kg
- lemon quarters and fresh coriander for serving
Heat the coriander seeds gently in a small thick pan for 3 to 4 minutes. Peel the ginger and chop it coarsely, and shell the cardamon seeds. Grind these spices with the peppercorns, salt, and cloves, in a pestle and mortar until you have something approaching a rough blend. A little ghee or oil can be added to ease the process.
Now pull back the skin of the chicken from between the wings, without tearing if possible, and with a small sharp knife make incisions under the skin in the leg and the breast meat of the bird. Press the spice mix into these and spread it as evenly as possible wherever you can get to between the skin and the flesh. Put the skin back in place.
Leave for 1 – 2 hours.
Set the oven to gas mark 4/180°C about 10 minutes before you want to put the chicken in. On top of the stove, heat 1 – 2 tbsp ghee or oil in a casserole in which the chicken fits quite closely, and put it in on its side. Cover and bake in the oven, turning the bird over after 30 minutes. Remove the lid after 1 hour, turn the chicken breast upwards and cook for a further 10 minutes.
Serve with the juices poured over the chicken, lemon quarters around it, and a sprig or two of fresh coriander if you can get it. Accompaniments could include aromatic basmati rice, and a couple of colourful vegetable dishes to break up the off-white tones.